I have spent every free moment I’ve had over the last two years absorbed in my idea for a comedy (mock) reality-time-travel series that focuses on the Mesolithic era. I had always planned to travel Europe in the summer, originally to make a music documentary, but it worked out that I was able to use the time to visit countries that my characters will be visiting in ‘Somewhen BCE’.
We started our trip in Croatia, a beautiful country that manages to dominate the entire coastline opposite to Italy, perfect for those who adore sea swimming and are happy with shingle beaches (I’m from Brighton so am used to those!) The remains of culture from the Early Stone Age and Neolithic period were found here and it’s undoubtedly a fascinating country steeped in history.
Mlini
Mlini is a beautiful coastal town nestled between mountains and some of the clearest ocean I’ve ever seen. We had some delicious meals, the locals were friendly, and we stumbled upon a Water Polo (hugely popular in Croatia!) tournament and fundraiser which was a uniquely fun experience. Our accommodation was cosy with a small pool (though the bathroom could’ve used a new toilet seat). The only downside? The sheer number of stairs! Carrying our heavy bags was a workout, and when we left in a rush, I ran-drag-tumbled myself down the stairs, wrecking my suitcase. Plus, I left behind my pricey toothbrush—a loss I’m still mourning and had to replace #adhdtax
Dubrovnik
We took a boat from Mlini to Dubrovnik, my favourite way to travel! The Old Town, though stunning, felt a bit like a tourist trap with its shiny main street that looked straight out of a film set. While food was generally overpriced, we found a set menu for €15 that filled us up without impressing. The real highlight was stumbling upon a hidden swimming spot built into the rocks, with ladders leading right into the water and rock ledges for jumping—a perfect little adventure!
Granted its independence as a country in May 2006, Montenegro is still finding its feet but is a hot-bed of tourism from its surrounding neighbours. From the beautiful beaches in Ulchij to the quaint town of Tivat, the difference in experience is vast for one of the smaller countries we visited.
Tivat
Tivat was easy to navigate on foot, except for our late-night arrival when we struggled to find a cab from the bus station. The taxi we finally flagged down was about €6/7, and the driver kindly waited while we located our place. Tivat’s coastline was beautiful, with clear, greenish water from the plants growing on the seabed. We enjoyed a delicious dinner at Babi, where I had the most flavorful salmon with pistachio sauce and rice—it was a bit pricier at €30 each, but that included two glasses of wine! Our cosy accommodation had two single beds and an attic kitchen (charming in theory, but far too hot to cook in!). Our hosts were amazing, gifting us fresh vegetables from their garden and even giving us a ride to the bus station.
Budva
Budva was one of my friend’s favourite spots, though it wasn’t for me. It was crowded, and the air pollution was tough on my lungs. The beach was packed, with sections run by bars and restaurants that charge for access—only worth it if you plan to stay all day. A kayak tour helped us escape the crowds, and Budva’s nightlife scene impressed us. At Torch, a club with surprisingly affordable drinks, we danced to saxophone remixes and enjoyed an upbeat atmosphere with costumed dancers. We met new friends and went in search of more “dush dush” music when Torch closed at 1 a.m, but the only other decent club was so packed that we had to call it a night.
The day we left, rather hungover, we faced extra fees—€4 for bus luggage and printing—and our short cab ride to the station cost €10. Later, we returned for a rest day in between travels and ventured out just far enough to grab a fantastic veggie burger at Burger Theory.
Ulcinj
Ulcinj was my favourite in Montenegro! The atmosphere was friendly, and our accommodation had a pool. The beach was busier than Budva but much larger, with a long stretch of sand and reasonably priced beach bars. Miami Beach was our main spot, though I’d love to come back and explore the others across town. One night, we enjoyed a fantastic meal where I had white fish with potatoes and veggies, all perfectly cooked and washed down with a lush white wine (a local staple!).
The drive from Budva to Ulcinj offered incredible views along the coast, with mountain roads winding over scenic bridges. We arranged a €12 lift to the bus station after our booked taxi didn’t show. This lift saved us as our bus to Ohrid departed on time for the first time during the whole trip!
North Macedonia – Lake Ohrid
Lake Ohrid felt like the heart of Eastern Europe. Its crystal-clear waters and cobbled streets around the old town were exactly what I pictured when planning this trip. The town’s hill is crowned with castles and monasteries, full of lively bars, restaurants, and reasonable prices. The local ice cream was cheap, the wine was delicious, and the hostel was charming (we had a private room, though!). One highlight was a wine tour at a nearby monastery, where our guide Simon shared his winemaking expertise, making it a memorable experience.
I am so pleased that my travelling companion persuaded me to include Albania in our journey.There’s a lot to do here and a lot to learn, with so much interesting political history, museums, bomb-shelters and galleries. I was anxious to be in a busy non-coastal capital city in the height of summer, but there were so many quirky bars, lovely eateries, and cooling mists in the streets and local parks! Although we only got to Sarande on the long stretch of seacoast, it was beautiful and encouraged me to try other areas in the future.
Tirana
In Tirana, our schedule shifted due to travel logistics, but we enjoyed Blloku, a vibrant area packed with unique bars and restaurants. We had an excellent meal and found a quirky bar where two glasses of wine came with a big bowl of fruit—a refreshing “dessert” to end the night! Nightlife picks up late here, but with my early fatigue, I left my friend to explore the later scene solo. Luckily we were back in Tirana again four days later and this time, after another fabulous meal, we were determined to go out on the town properly and we went dancing at a local nightclub to Blloku. We also visited Bunk’d Art II, a fascinating museum in a war bunker. I found it really interesting to learn about the country’s history and democratic struggles.
Sarandë
By Sarandë, the journey was wearing me out, and I realized I might’ve underestimated travelling with a disability. Sarandë is a lovely beach town, and though I missed joining my friend on a party boat, I enjoyed restful beach days. The public beach water was pleasant (though a bit grimy), but the paid loungers at beachfront bars around the coast offered pristine, clear waters and dance music—a relaxing way to end this unforgettable adventure.
